Friday, 14 August 2026

Chef Keshav Menon's Curated Dinner @ Lake Manor, Kochi

The Burn Room at Lake Manor


A Curated Dinner by Chef Keshav Menon


Our first encounter with Chef Keshav Menon’s curated dining was at The Burn Room, where food became more than a succession of courses. It became an unfolding story, with each plate revealing another layer of the chef’s imagination. Our second experience took that idea several steps further.

This time, Chef Keshav moved his culinary theatre to the exclusive precincts of Lake Manor at Panangad, and in doing so demonstrated something that has increasingly become the hallmark of his dining experiences: the venue is never merely a venue. It becomes part of the menu.

Lake Manor: Where the setting becomes an ingredient

There are places where one goes to eat, and there are places where one goes to experience food. Lake Manor belongs firmly to the latter category.

Nestled into the serene waterscape of Panangad, the property has an intimacy that immediately slows you down. Away from the bustle of the city, the lake, the palms, the evening air and the sense of being cocooned by Kerala’s backwaters created the perfect canvas for a dinner built around the flavours of the coast.

Adding considerably to the experience was the gracious hosting by the ever so charming Ms. Divya Thomas who oversees this beautiful property. Her warmth, geniality, and individual attention gave this enchanting evening a wonderfully personal character. There was no feeling of simply being guests at a restaurant. We felt welcomed into an exclusive private world, where the surroundings, the hospitality and the exquisite food were all part of the same carefully composed experience.

And then came the menu.

It was immediately evident that Chef Keshav had not simply transported his kitchen to Panangad. He had allowed Panangad to influence his kitchen.


1. Ripple On The Banks

Rice Bran Tartlet | Pokkali Custard | Coconut Ripple



The opening course was a quiet introduction to what lay ahead.

The Rice Bran Tartlet provided a delicate, almost earthy crispness, creating a fragile vessel for the richness of the Pokkali Custard. Coconut brought the composition back towards the familiar landscape of Kerala, but in a form that felt refined rather than nostalgic.

What made the dish interesting was the conversation between textures. Crisp gave way to creamy; savoury richness met the gentle sweetness of coconut. It was a small plate, but it established the grammar of the evening: local ingredients, reimagined without losing their identity.


The name Ripple of the Banks seemed particularly apt. It felt like the first ripple spreading across the still waters of the evening.


2. Coastal Press

Shrimp Bisque | Mango | Kera Foam


If the first course whispered, the Coastal Press spoke in the unmistakable accent of the Kerala coast.

Shrimp brought the sea into the bowl, while Mango introduced a bright, fruity counterpoint. Kera Foam added another layer of sweetness and texture, allowing the dish to move between the richness of a bisque and the freshness of tropical produce.

This was where the location began to make itself felt more strongly. Panangad is surrounded by the visual and cultural language of water, seafood, coconut and tropical abundance. The dish seemed to understand its geography.


It was not merely seafood on a plate. It was the coast interpreted through a contemporary culinary vocabulary.


3. The Confluence

Parisian Gnocchi | Kera Stew | Curry Leaf



The title itself tells us what Chef Keshav was attempting: a meeting of worlds.

Parisian gnocchi, with its delicate softness, encountered the comforting familiarity of a Kera stew. Curry leaf then became the bridge between the two traditions, bringing the unmistakable aroma of South India into a preparation with European roots.

The magic lay in the fact that neither side overwhelmed the other.

The gnocchi did not become an imitation of Kerala food, nor did the stew lose its character in the presence of French technique. Instead, they met somewhere in between.



That is perhaps what good fusion cooking should be. Not a collision, but a confluence.


4. The Kallakku

Crab Custard | Pokkali Crisp | Curry Leaf Oil



The Malabari course returned decisively to the coastline.

Crab and Kerala are almost inseparable in the culinary imagination, but Chef Keshav approached the ingredient with remarkable restraint. The Crab Custard carried the delicate sweetness of the shellfish, while the Pokkali Crisp introduced a contrasting savoury depth and crunch.

Then came Curry Leaf Oil, fragrant and unmistakably rooted in the region.

The dish worked because every element had a role. Nothing seemed decorative. That Custard offered softness, the Pokkali Crisp offered texture, and the Curry Leaf Oil tied the whole composition together with an aromatic thread.



It was perhaps one of the clearest examples of Keshav's ability to take ingredients that belong naturally to the neighbourhood and make them speak in a new language.


5. Vembanad At Dusk

Duck Croquettes | Burnt Cauliflower | Kokum



By this stage, the dinner had developed its own rhythm, and Vembanad at Dusk felt like the evening moving towards its final act.

The Duck Croquettes brought a deeper, more intense character to the table. Their crisp exterior gave way to a rich interior, while his subtle garlic element added an almost smoky bitterness that prevented the dish from becoming overly heavy. Burnt Cauliflower and Kokum creatively married the flavours delicately to create a restrained symphony of flavours.

There was something wonderfully evocative about the name too. Vembanad at Dusk suggested the Kerala countryside settling into evening, the last light falling across the water, the day's activity gradually giving way to stillness.

The food seemed to echo that transition.



The earlier courses had been brighter and more exploratory. This one was deeper, darker and more contemplative.


6. After the Tide

Blackberry | Panna Cotta | Tender Coconut Custard



And then, after the tide, came calm.

The dessert was a graceful conclusion to an evening that had travelled through sea, land, tradition and imagination. Blackberry brought a sharp, fruity brightness, while the Panna Cotta supplied its familiar creamy softness. Tender Coconut Custard brought the dessert firmly back home to where we were dining.

It was a fitting ending because coconut had appeared earlier in the journey, and here it returned in a sweeter, more delicate form.



The dinner had come full circle.

The tide had gone out, the courses had completed their journey, and what remained was the lingering taste of an experience rather than simply the memory of a meal.


When a dinner becomes an experience

What makes Chef Keshav Menon's curated dining so compelling is not simply his technical ability or his understanding of ingredients. It is his uncanny ability to connect his food with the place.

He chooses venues with a personality and then allows that personality to influence what appears on the plate. At Lake Manor, Panangad it was not just a backdrop. Its waters, palms, coastal character and Kerala identity became part of his culinary narrative.

That is what separates a thoughtful curated dining experience from just another elaborate dinner.

Chef Keshav understands that ingredients have geography. Crab tastes different when one is dining beside Kerala's waters. Coconut carries another meaning when palms are part of the landscape. Curry leaf becomes more than an aromatic when the air itself seems to belong to the world from which it came.

His genius lies in recognising these connections and translating them into food. He is a master of creating curated wonders that become memories forever.

And perhaps that is the most beautiful thing about food. We rarely remember every ingredient in a meal. We may forget the precise texture, the temperature, even the name of a particular course. 

But we remember where we were. Whom we were with. The conversation around the table. The light outside. The unexpected taste that made us pause. The hospitality that made us feel special. The place that seemed, for a few hours, to belong entirely to us.

Food is therefore a metaphor for living.



Life too is a succession of courses. Some are crisp and unexpected, some rich and comforting, some bitter, some sweet. Each experience prepares the palate for the next. And just when we think a moment has passed, it leaves behind its flavour.



Perhaps that is why the finest meals are never really finished. They continue within us as memories. And on that beautiful evening at Lake Manor, Chef Keshav Menon did not merely serve us dinner.

He served us a memory.


Wednesday, 12 August 2026

The Magic Of Pootharekulu

An Afternoon When Pootharekulu Walked Into My Life!





There are some culinary discoveries that happen after elaborate searches, through recommendations, or at celebrated restaurants. And then there are those that simply walk into your life by chance. My discovery of Pootharekulu, the exquisite paper-thin sweet from Andhra Pradesh, was one such beautiful accident.

This afternoon, I happened to be in the neighbourhood on an errand when, on an impulse, I decided to drop in and meet 88-year-old Rani Mukundan aunty, someone I admire immensely. She is a dear friend of my late mother-in-law and has always held a very special place in my heart.




Rani aunty is a dynamite of talent and energy. An exceptional painter, a passionate gardener and a woman with an extraordinary eye for beauty, she has spent nearly six decades collecting plants. Her home is almost a reserve forest in the middle of Kochi, filled with an astonishing collection of greenery, paintings and carefully chosen curios. Yet everything is curated with such taste that, despite its abundance, her home remains absolutely spic and span. There is an unmistakable personality in every corner.

It was during this completely unplanned visit and her insistence on not sending me off without having anything, that I stumbled upon something I had never really experienced before: Pootharekulu.



And what a discovery it was.

I was so fascinated by this discovery that immediately on returning home I wanted to learn more and enlighten myself about the origins and making of this sweet. That is another fascinating story. 

I am presenting my summary as I have understood and experienced it.

Pootharekulu, also called Putharekulu, literally translates roughly to “coating of sheets”. It is one of Andhra Pradesh's most distinctive traditional sweets, with its roots firmly embedded in Atreyapuram, in the East Godavari region. The sweet has been made there for centuries and has become almost inseparable from the identity of the village.

What fascinated me most was learning about the extraordinary craftsmanship behind something that, at first glance, appears so deceptively simple.

The magic begins with rice.

A special variety of rice, traditionally known locally as Jaya, is soaked and ground into an exceptionally fine batter. The batter is then used to create the famous reku, the almost impossibly thin rice-starch sheet that gives the sweet its identity.

The traditional preparation is wonderfully ingenious.

An earthen pot is heated and inverted. A fine cloth is dipped into the rice batter and then swiftly swept across the hot surface of the inverted pot. The movement has to be quick, precise and practiced. Almost instantaneously, the moisture evaporates and leaves behind a translucent film of rice starch.

A sheet so delicate that it resembles a piece of paper.

That sheet is carefully peeled away.

Then comes the layering.

One sheet is placed down, a generous brushing of melted ghee follows, and powdered sugar is sprinkled over it. Another delicate sheet may be added, followed by more ghee and another layer of sweetness. Depending on the variety, the filling can include jaggery, powdered cashews, almonds and pistachios, creating a richer and nuttier character.

There are also contemporary versions filled with kova or mawa, while newer interpretations have ventured into chocolate, crushed biscuits and even Oreo-inspired fillings.

But for me, the traditional versions possess a charm that modern experimentation cannot quite replicate.

The women of Atreyapuram have perfected this craft over generations. What looks like a simple kitchen exercise is actually a remarkable display of hand-eye coordination, timing and muscle memory. The making of the rice sheets has become an important cottage industry, providing livelihoods to hundreds of women in the village. Their hands have preserved a culinary tradition that could easily have disappeared into history.

Once the layers are assembled, the sheet is folded and rolled with extraordinary delicacy. The finished sweet is light, compact and almost impossibly fragile, before being carefully packed for sale.

And then comes the moment of truth.

The first bite is an experience in contrasts.

There is a delicate crunch as the wafer-thin rice layers yield between the teeth. Almost immediately, the crispness gives way to a soft, buttery melt. The ghee spreads across the palate, carrying the sweetness of the sugar or jaggery with it. Then the nuts appear, adding little bursts of texture and roasted richness.

It doesn't sit heavily on the tongue. It almost disappears.

There is something wonderfully ephemeral about Pootharekulu. You bite into something that looks like paper and, within seconds, it has transformed into sweetness, ghee, nuttiness and fragrance.

The taste is uncomplicated. The technique is anything but. And perhaps that is what makes it so extraordinary.

I was also struck by the story behind the sweet. Local lore attributes its origins to a woman in Atreyapuram who is said to have experimented with leftover rice starch, adding ghee and sugar to it. Whether every detail of that story is historically verifiable is perhaps less important than what it represents: the instinctive creativity of someone who looked at an ordinary ingredient and imagined something extraordinary.

That spirit survives in Atreyapuram today.

A simple rice batter becomes a translucent sheet. A little ghee becomes richness. Sugar becomes sweetness. A handful of nuts becomes texture. And generations of skilled hands transform all of them into a delicacy that has travelled far beyond its village of origin.

That, to me, is the real beauty of food.

Great food does not always begin with expensive ingredients or complicated recipes. Sometimes it begins with imagination, patience and the willingness to see possibility in the ordinary. Put heart and soul into the making, and humble ingredients can acquire an identity, a history and eventually a reputation.

Atreyapuram did exactly that.

And now, Pootharekulu carries the name of that village wherever it goes.

What made my discovery even more special was the person with whom it happened. When Rani aunty saw how much I was enjoying the sweet, she lovingly packed two pieces for me to take home and share with Nandini, my wife.



That small gesture somehow completed the experience.

I had gone to see an old friend almost on a whim. I came away having discovered a sweet I had somehow missed all these years, along with a little more appreciation for the invisible stories hidden inside the food we eat.

Life occasionally opens a door without announcing that there is something beautiful behind it.

Today, that door was Rani aunty's home.

Behind it was Pootharekulu.

And tucked inside those two little paper-thin sweets was something far more precious than sugar, ghee and nuts: a new taste, a beautiful memory, and the warmth of an unexpected afternoon spent with someone whose presence has been woven into my family's story.

Some tastes are enjoyed. Some are remembered. And some become memories that refuse to fade.

Pootharekulu, for me, has already become one of them.




Wednesday, 5 August 2026

Coz, Panampilly Nagar, Kochi

 Coz, Panampilly Nagar, Kochi: A Beautiful Blend of Flavour, Atmosphere, and Fine Hospitality

There are restaurants that become popular because they serve good food, and then there are those that evolve into neighbourhood institutions because they create an experience people willingly return to. Coz at Panampilly Nagar belongs comfortably in the latter.

Conceived as a contemporary all-day café and restaurant, Coz has built a loyal following by combining globally inspired comfort food with warm Kerala hospitality in one of Kochi's most charming neighbourhoods. 



The interiors are understated yet stylish, with earthy tones, warm lighting and tasteful décor that encourages guests to slow down. One can choose between the cosy air-conditioned indoor dining area, an in-between thoughtfully designed workspace where laptops and coffee coexist effortlessly, or the delightful open-air garden seating that brings together greenery, fresh air and relaxed conversations. It is the kind of place that adapts beautifully whether you are dropping in for a business meeting, a family lunch or an unhurried evening with friends.



Our Sunday lunch at Coz was shared by Nandini, our son Karan and me, and it turned into one of those leisurely meals where every course seemed to raise expectations for the next. We opened with the Chicken Goujons, and they were everything a good starter should be. Golden and crisp on the outside, yet tender and juicy within, each strip of chicken retained its succulence beneath a beautifully seasoned coating. The accompanying dip added a welcome contrast, balancing richness with freshness and making the platter disappear much faster than we had anticipated.


Karan's Chicken Burrito Bowl arrived looking every bit as vibrant as it tasted. Rather than relying on a single dominant flavour, the bowl celebrated harmony. The perfectly cooked chicken, fragrant rice, fresh vegetables, chips, beans and sauces each retained their individual identity while contributing to a complete and satisfying whole. Every spoonful delivered different textures and subtle flavour combinations, making it a wholesome meal that never felt heavy.

The Pollo Asado with Arroz Verde that Nandini had, demonstrated equal confidence in it's execution. The grilled chicken carried the gentle smokiness and caramelisation expected from a well-marinated Asado, while remaining wonderfully moist. The beautifully herb-infused Arroz Verde brought freshness, colour and aromatic depth to the plate. Together they formed a dish that was comforting, balanced and quietly elegant without trying too hard to impress.


My own medium rare beef steak was undoubtedly the highlight of the afternoon. Cooked with remarkable precision, the centre displayed that beautiful warm pink which every steak lover hopes to find. The beef was tender enough to yield effortlessly to the knife while retaining its natural bite and flavour. The peppercorn sauce was rich without overwhelming the meat, adding just the right amount of warmth and spice. Instead of the customary mashed potatoes, I opted for buttered rice, a substitution that worked surprisingly well by allowing the steak and sauce to remain the undisputed stars. The sautéed vegetables added freshness, colour and just enough crunch to complete an exceptionally satisfying plate.

Our beverages complemented the meal perfectly. The Cortado I had was smooth, balanced and showcased the espresso without excessive bitterness. The Peach Iced Tea Karan liked, was refreshingly fruity and ideal for a warm Kochi afternoon, while the Nandini's Vietnamese Iced Latte offered a luxurious blend of bold coffee, creamy milk and gentle sweetness that lingered pleasantly long after the final sip.


Good restaurants are ultimately remembered as much for their people as for their food, and Coz is fortunate to have Hari and Prasad leading the guest experience. They possess that increasingly rare ability to make every guest feel genuinely welcome. Their thoughtful recommendations, patient explanations of the menu and attentive yet unobtrusive service ensured that we made informed choices and remained comfortable throughout our meal. Their professionalism and warmth reflect a team that truly enjoys looking after its guests.

We left Coz after an unhurried Sunday lunch, and what remained was not merely the memory of excellent food but the feeling of having spent quality time in a space that understands hospitality in its fullest sense. Now I know why Coz is thronged by so many discerning diners, it is because this restaurant has masterfully designed a charming dining space, with an exceptional mix of cuisine, where their gracious service in that enchanting ambience creates an unforgettable experience for the diner. Everyone comes away knowing for sure, that it is just one of the many visits they will be making to Coz. That magic is because Coz satisfies not only the food-craving of every patron, but it also feeds their heart with happiness, mind with peace, and the soul with satisfaction.

As we drove out into the leafy avenues of Panampilly Nagar, it became clear that Coz offers something more enduring than just an excellent meal. It brings together a wonderful location, thoughtfully curated spaces, gracious hospitality, attentive guest service and a kitchen that consistently delivers food of exceptional quality and character. In a city blessed with many fine restaurants, Coz continues to distinguish itself by making every visit feel personal. Our heartfelt thanks to the entire team, especially Hari and Prasad, for making our Sunday lunch such a memorable experience. We left with happy hearts, satisfied palates and every intention of returning soon.







Advent of Curated Dinners in Kochi

The Burn Room: Where Fire, Technique and Conversation Shared the Same Table


Kochi's culinary landscape has long been defined by excellent restaurants, beloved family kitchens, food trucks, streetside "Tattukadas" and vibrant local flavours. Yet, the concept of a curated private dining experience, where every seat is reserved, every course is narrated and every ingredient is chosen with a singular purpose, remains a refreshing novelty. On 4 April 2026, my wife Nandini and I had the privilege of experiencing one such evening at The Burn Room, Chef Keshav Menon's intimate culinary theatre housed within Rock Paper Scissors Aesthetics, Panampilly Nagar. It was not merely another dinner; it was a carefully orchestrated journey where six courses unfolded like chapters in a story, each building upon the previous one while quietly revealing the chef's philosophy.

Chef Keshav Menon belongs to a new generation of pioneering Indian chefs who see cuisine not simply as nourishment but as a canvas for exploring new boundaries, and artistic expression. Deeply rooted in technique while remaining faithful to seasonal ingredients, he believes that food should never overpower the diner with excess. Instead, every component should have a reason to exist, allowing the ingredient itself to remain the protagonist. Fermentation, open-fire cooking, restrained plating and thoughtful sourcing have become signatures of his work, reflecting influences gathered from global fine dining without losing sight of Kerala's remarkable produce.

His Burn Room is perhaps the purest expression of that philosophy. Limited seating ensures that every guest becomes part of an intimate conversation between chef and diner. There is no printed à la carte menu, no hurried service and no distractions. Every plate arrives with intention, every ingredient has been considered, and every course invites discussion. In many ways, Chef Keshav is attempting something larger than serving memorable meals. He is quietly building a culture of experiential dining in Kochi, proving that the city is ready to stand alongside more established gastronomic destinations.

Let me now talk about that memorable dinner course by course, as I have personally interpreted and experienced it.

Course One: Wings of Fire
Chicken Wings | Red Shrimp | Hot Citrus
The evening opened with exactly what its name promised: fire.
Chicken wings, comfort food across cultures, were elevated through precise cooking that preserved tenderness beneath beautifully caramelised skin. Alongside rested sweet red shrimp, whose delicate marine sweetness formed an elegant counterpoint to the smoky chicken. Hot citrus tied the two proteins together, its acidity cutting through richness while awakening the palate.
Historically, citrus has been paired with seafood for centuries across Mediterranean and Japanese cuisines because acidity enhances freshness without masking flavour. Here it performed the same role while introducing warmth rather than sharpness alone. The course announced that this dinner would celebrate balance instead of extravagance.

Course Two: Kera Crudo
Yellowfin Tuna | Coconut | Lime | Chilli Oil
The word crudo, meaning "raw" in Italian, celebrates pristine seafood prepared with minimal intervention. Chef Keshav interpreted that European tradition through unmistakably tropical ingredients.
Silky slices of yellowfin tuna carried a buttery richness. Coconut added mellow sweetness and creamy softness while fresh lime provided bright acidity that awakened every bite. A restrained drizzle of chilli oil lingered gently at the back of the palate rather than overwhelming it.
The brilliance lay in its geography. Japanese sashimi, Italian crudo and Kerala's lifelong affection for coconut and seafood met on one plate without competing. Instead, they spoke a common culinary language.

Course Three: Champagne & Citrus
Fresh Gnocchi | Beurre Blanc | Orange | Kumquats | Hazelnuts
Perhaps the most elegant course of the evening, this dish paid homage to classical French cooking.
Fresh gnocchi, those delicate potato dumplings originating in northern Italy, were soft enough to almost dissolve on the tongue. They floated in beurre blanc, the celebrated French butter sauce invented in the Loire Valley during the nineteenth century, renowned for its silky texture and gentle acidity.
Orange segments and kumquats introduced bursts of fragrant sweetness and gentle bitterness that prevented the richness from becoming excessive. Toasted hazelnuts completed the composition with earthy warmth and welcome crunch.
Every forkful moved between creamy, citrusy and nutty notes, creating a remarkable harmony that demonstrated why classical techniques continue to inspire modern chefs.

Course Four: Tropical Bloom
Charred Pineapple | Black Garlic | Lemon
Few ingredients transform as dramatically under fire as pineapple. Charring intensified its natural sugars while adding smoky complexity.
Black garlic, created by patiently ageing garlic under controlled heat and humidity for several weeks, contributed remarkable depth. Gone was the aggressive pungency of raw garlic. In its place came flavours reminiscent of balsamic vinegar, molasses and dried fruit.
Fresh lemon brightened the entire composition, ensuring the sweetness never dominated. The dish acted almost like an intermezzo, refreshing the palate before the richer meat course while celebrating the extraordinary possibilities hidden within humble ingredients.

Course Five: Beef, Seared & Smoked
Tenderloin | Cold-Smoked Beef | Mustard Cream
The principal course was an elegant study in beef prepared through contrasting techniques.
Tenderloin, among the most tender cuts, was expertly seared to create a beautifully caramelised exterior while preserving a succulent interior. Beside it, cold-smoked beef introduced an entirely different dimension. Unlike hot smoking, cold smoking perfumes meat without fully cooking it, allowing subtle woody aromas to develop gradually.
Mustard cream completed the trio. Mustard has accompanied beef since medieval Europe because its natural sharpness balances richness while cleansing the palate. Here it served precisely that purpose, uniting smoke, tenderness and gentle spice into one deeply satisfying composition.
It was a course built on restraint rather than excess, proving that technical precision often produces greater impact than elaborate presentation alone.

Course Six: Cactus and Vines
Dragon Fruit | Vanilla | Thyme
Dessert arrived almost as a whisper.
Dragon fruit offered delicate sweetness and remarkable freshness. Vanilla contributed warmth and aromatic depth, while thyme, more commonly associated with savoury cooking, surprised with its subtle herbal perfume.
The combination recalled contemporary Nordic desserts where herbs frequently accompany fruit to create complexity rather than sugar-driven indulgence. Light, elegant and refreshing, it concluded the meal without heaviness, leaving the palate satisfied yet curious for another bite.


Beyond the food itself, what 
lingered most vividly was the atmosphere around the table. Ten strangers arrived carrying different stories, professions and expectations. Over six beautifully paced courses, conversations began effortlessly. Plates were admired, photographs taken, flavours debated, techniques discussed, social media accounts exchanged, and familiarity and laughter gradually replaced the cold initial introductions. By the end of the evening, acquaintances had quietly become friends, united by the shared joy of discovery, curated by the genius of a passionate chef.

Every course felt intentionally placed within the sequence, each preparing the senses for the next. There was no unnecessary flourish, only thoughtful progression from fire to freshness, richness to delicacy, ending in quiet elegance. Chef Keshav Menon and his dedicated team deserve immense appreciation for creating not just an exceptional meal but an unforgettable experience that showcased what Kochi's emerging fine dining scene is capable of achieving.

As we stepped out of The Burn Room that night, it became evident that memorable meals are never measured solely by flavours. Sometimes food becomes a language spoken without words, turning strangers into companions, moments into memories, and an ordinary evening into a story that continues to be savoured long after the final course has disappeared. Thank you maverick Chef Keshav for pioneering this new concept with so much elegance, passion and elań.