Cafficana, Panampilly Nagar, Kochi

 Cafficana: Where breakfast becomes an experience, and coffee becomes a conversation☕🍳

There are breakfasts that merely fill you up, and then there are breakfasts that announce themselves as an occasion. With our cousin visiting us from Thrissur, we wanted to give him something hearty, indulgent and memorable, and Cafficana at Panampilly Nagar seemed the perfect place to begin the day.

We started with the Braised Chicken Sourdough Sandwich, which arrived looking every bit as inviting as it tasted. The sourdough had that beautiful contrast of a crisp, gently toasted exterior and a soft, slightly chewy crumb, carrying the deeply savoury braised chicken beautifully. The chicken was tender and succulent, its slow-cooked character giving it a richness that was balanced rather than heavy. Every bite brought together the toasted graininess of the bread, the juicy chicken and the savoury accompaniments in a wonderfully composed mouthful. It was comfort food elevated by technique, with each component retaining its own identity while contributing to the whole.

Then came the Three Fried Eggs English Breakfast, a magnificent plate that could easily qualify as breakfast with a military parade behind it! Three perfectly fried eggs sat at the centre, their whites delicately set with the requested cooked yolks that begs to be broken into with toast. Around them were crisp-edged hash browns, creamy and comforting baked beans, smoky chicken bacon, well-seasoned chicken sausages and beautifully grilled vegetables. The hash browns had that essential textural contrast: crunchy enough on the outside, yielding and potato-rich within. The chicken bacon brought a smoky, savoury depth, while the sausages were juicy and properly seasoned. The baked beans added sweetness and moisture, and the grilled vegetables brought colour, char and freshness to what could otherwise have been an intensely rich plate.

What particularly impressed us was the precision of cooking. Nothing seemed overdone, nothing seemed incidental. The plate had colour, texture, temperature and balance, and the presentation had the reassuring generosity of a proper breakfast rather than the fussiness of food arranged merely for photographs. It was substantial without being clumsy, indulgent without becoming overwhelming. Quite simply, it was a breakfast designed to make you happy.

And then came the coffee.

The Syphon Bloom turns coffee into a small ritual of alchemy. As the water rises into the upper chamber, the freshly ground beans awaken, blooming slowly as heat coaxes their volatile oils and aromatic compounds into the brew. Here, coffee becomes theatre: fragrant beans meet water in an alchemy of heat, pressure and time. In the siphon, water rises, embracing the ground coffee before gravity draws the infusion gently back through the filter. The process coaxes flavours from the beans with clarity, separating sweetness, acidity and aroma into distinct, harmonious layers. KDP Lot D5 reveals a luscious port-wine character, cranberry acidity and a silky apricot finish. Each sip unfolds progressively, first fruity and vibrant, then deeper and wine-like, finally lingering with polished sweetness. It is less a brew than a choreographed conversation between bean, water, heat and hands, that both cativates, and intoxicates the palate.

Watching the barista coax the coffee through the syphon was almost as fascinating as drinking it. The unusual brewing process allows the freshly ground beans to bloom and mingle with heated water before the infusion is drawn back through the filter, producing a remarkably clear and expressive cup. The tasting notes came alive in layers. It was fruity, elegant and beautifully articulated, a coffee that invited you to pause between sips. The Flat White, by contrast, was a study in restrained comfort, with the espresso and microfoam coming together in a smooth, creamy and beautifully balanced cup.

A significant part of the pleasure was the people behind the experience. Praveen, the Captain, and Vivek, the barista, were excellent. Their attentiveness, knowledge and easy hospitality added something intangible to the meal. Good service is rarely about merely taking an order and carrying a plate. It is about sensing what the table needs, knowing the product and making guests feel that their experience matters. Both did precisely that.

From Calicut to Kochi

Cafficana's story has its roots in a distinctly farm-to-cup philosophy, with the brand built around its own coffee from the valleys of Coorg and an enthusiasm for celebrating coffee through different brewing methods. Its search for the perfect coffee has led it towards single-origin beans, artisan brewing and a menu that treats the café as much more than a place for a quick caffeine fix.

The brand subsequently made its way from Calicut into Kochi, bringing that coffee-led identity into the city's increasingly sophisticated café culture. Its arrival in Panampilly Nagar was particularly apt. The neighbourhood itself has evolved from an essentially residential enclave into one of Kochi's important food and lifestyle destinations, with cafés, restaurants, boutiques and other independent establishments giving the area its distinctive contemporary character.

Cafficana has found its own space within that ecosystem. Its appeal lies not in one spectacular gimmick, but in the accumulation of details: a thoughtful menu, serious coffee, attractive ambience, attentive service and food that is prepared with evident care. Its coffee programme alone demonstrates an unusual breadth, embracing methods such as Chemex, Moka Pot, French Press, V60 and AeroPress, alongside espresso-based classics.

Perhaps that is how reputations are really built in food.

A restaurant may attract you once because someone recommends it. A beautiful plate may bring you through the door. A fashionable address may create curiosity. But good food creates memory, and memory creates reputation. Reputation, in turn, becomes a magnet, drawing people back and persuading them to bring others with them.

That morning at Cafficana was exactly that kind of experience. We had gone there simply because we wanted to give our visiting cousin a hearty breakfast. We left with something more valuable: the feeling that we had discovered a place worth returning to.

With its location in the leafy, increasingly gastronomic neighbourhood of Panampilly Nagar, its inviting ambience, knowledgeable service, ambitious menu and serious approach to coffee, Cafficana has become one of those Kochi cafés that people don't merely visit; they talk about, recommend and return to.

And perhaps that is the finest compliment any food establishment can earn: when good food becomes a reputation, and reputation becomes a destination.

Chef Keshav Menon's Curated Dinner @ Lake Manor, Kochi

The Burn Room at Lake Manor

A Curated Dinner by Chef Keshav Menon

Our first encounter with Chef Keshav Menon’s curated dining was at The Burn Room, where food became more than a succession of courses. It became an unfolding story, with each plate revealing another layer of the chef’s imagination. Our second experience took that idea several steps further.

This time, Chef Keshav moved his culinary theatre to the exclusive precincts of Lake Manor at Panangad, and in doing so demonstrated something that has increasingly become the hallmark of his dining experiences: the venue is never merely a venue. It becomes part of the menu.

Lake Manor: Where the setting becomes an ingredient

There are places where one goes to eat, and there are places where one goes to experience food. Lake Manor belongs firmly to the latter category.

Nestled into the serene waterscape of Panangad, the property has an intimacy that immediately slows you down. Away from the bustle of the city, the lake, the palms, the evening air and the sense of being cocooned by Kerala’s backwaters created the perfect canvas for a dinner built around the flavours of the coast.

Adding considerably to the experience was the gracious hosting by the ever so charming Ms. Divya Thomas who oversees this beautiful property. Her warmth, geniality, and individual attention gave this enchanting evening a wonderfully personal character. There was no feeling of simply being guests at a restaurant. We felt welcomed into an exclusive private world, where the surroundings, the hospitality and the exquisite food were all part of the same carefully composed experience.

And then came the menu.

It was immediately evident that Chef Keshav had not simply transported his kitchen to Panangad. He had allowed Panangad to influence his kitchen.

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1. Ripple On The Banks

Rice Bran Tartlet | Pokkali Custard | Coconut Ripple

The opening course was a quiet introduction to what lay ahead.

The Rice Bran Tartlet provided a delicate, almost earthy crispness, creating a fragile vessel for the richness of the Pokkali Custard. Coconut brought the composition back towards the familiar landscape of Kerala, but in a form that felt refined rather than nostalgic.

What made the dish interesting was the conversation between textures. Crisp gave way to creamy; savoury richness met the gentle sweetness of coconut. It was a small plate, but it established the grammar of the evening: local ingredients, reimagined without losing their identity.

The name Ripple of the Banks seemed particularly apt. It felt like the first ripple spreading across the still waters of the evening.

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2. Coastal Press

Shrimp Bisque | Mango | Kera Foam

If the first course whispered, the Coastal Press spoke in the unmistakable accent of the Kerala coast.

Shrimp brought the sea into the bowl, while Mango introduced a bright, fruity counterpoint. Kera Foam added another layer of sweetness and texture, allowing the dish to move between the richness of a bisque and the freshness of tropical produce.

This was where the location began to make itself felt more strongly. Panangad is surrounded by the visual and cultural language of water, seafood, coconut and tropical abundance. The dish seemed to understand its geography.

It was not merely seafood on a plate. It was the coast interpreted through a contemporary culinary vocabulary.

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3. The Confluence

Parisian Gnocchi | Kera Stew | Curry Leaf

The title itself tells us what Chef Keshav was attempting: a meeting of worlds.

Parisian gnocchi, with its delicate softness, encountered the comforting familiarity of a Kera stew. Curry leaf then became the bridge between the two traditions, bringing the unmistakable aroma of South India into a preparation with European roots.

The magic lay in the fact that neither side overwhelmed the other.

The gnocchi did not become an imitation of Kerala food, nor did the stew lose its character in the presence of French technique. Instead, they met somewhere in between.

That is perhaps what good fusion cooking should be. Not a collision, but a confluence.

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4. The Kallakku

Crab Custard | Pokkali Crisp | Curry Leaf Oil

The Malabari course returned decisively to the coastline.

Crab and Kerala are almost inseparable in the culinary imagination, but Chef Keshav approached the ingredient with remarkable restraint. The Crab Custard carried the delicate sweetness of the shellfish, while the Pokkali Crisp introduced a contrasting savoury depth and crunch.

Then came Curry Leaf Oil, fragrant and unmistakably rooted in the region.

The dish worked because every element had a role. Nothing seemed decorative. That Custard offered softness, the Pokkali Crisp offered texture, and the Curry Leaf Oil tied the whole composition together with an aromatic thread.

It was perhaps one of the clearest examples of Keshav's ability to take ingredients that belong naturally to the neighbourhood and make them speak in a new language.

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5. Vembanad At Dusk

Duck Croquettes | Burnt Cauliflower | Kokum

By this stage, the dinner had developed its own rhythm, and Vembanad at Dusk felt like the evening moving towards its final act.

The Duck Croquettes brought a deeper, more intense character to the table. Their crisp exterior gave way to a rich interior, while his subtle garlic element added an almost smoky bitterness that prevented the dish from becoming overly heavy. Burnt Cauliflower and Kokum creatively married the flavours delicately to create a restrained symphony of flavours.

There was something wonderfully evocative about the name too. Vembanad at Dusk suggested the Kerala countryside settling into evening, the last light falling across the water, the day's activity gradually giving way to stillness.

The food seemed to echo that transition.

The earlier courses had been brighter and more exploratory. This one was deeper, darker and more contemplative.

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6. After the Tide

Blackberry | Panna Cotta | Tender Coconut Custard

And then, after the tide, came calm.

The dessert was a graceful conclusion to an evening that had travelled through sea, land, tradition and imagination. Blackberry brought a sharp, fruity brightness, while the Panna Cotta supplied its familiar creamy softness. Tender Coconut Custard brought the dessert firmly back home to where we were dining.

It was a fitting ending because coconut had appeared earlier in the journey, and here it returned in a sweeter, more delicate form.

The dinner had come full circle.

The tide had gone out, the courses had completed their journey, and what remained was the lingering taste of an experience rather than simply the memory of a meal.

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When a dinner becomes an experience

What makes Chef Keshav Menon's curated dining so compelling is not simply his technical ability or his understanding of ingredients. It is his uncanny ability to connect his food with the place.

He chooses venues with a personality and then allows that personality to influence what appears on the plate. At Lake Manor, Panangad it was not just a backdrop. Its waters, palms, coastal character and Kerala identity became part of his culinary narrative.

That is what separates a thoughtful curated dining experience from just another elaborate dinner.

Chef Keshav understands that ingredients have geography. Crab tastes different when one is dining beside Kerala's waters. Coconut carries another meaning when palms are part of the landscape. Curry leaf becomes more than an aromatic when the air itself seems to belong to the world from which it came.

His genius lies in recognising these connections and translating them into food. He is a master of creating curated wonders that become memories forever.

And perhaps that is the most beautiful thing about food. We rarely remember every ingredient in a meal. We may forget the precise texture, the temperature, even the name of a particular course. 

But we remember where we were. Whom we were with. The conversation around the table. The light outside. The unexpected taste that made us pause. The hospitality that made us feel special. The place that seemed, for a few hours, to belong entirely to us.

Food is therefore a metaphor for living.

Life too is a succession of courses. Some are crisp and unexpected, some rich and comforting, some bitter, some sweet. Each experience prepares the palate for the next. And just when we think a moment has passed, it leaves behind its flavour.

Perhaps that is why the finest meals are never really finished. They continue within us as memories. And on that beautiful evening at Lake Manor, Chef Keshav Menon did not merely serve us dinner.

He served us a memory.

The Magic Of Pootharekulu

An Afternoon When Pootharekulu Walked Into My Life!

There are some culinary discoveries that happen after elaborate searches, through recommendations, or at celebrated restaurants. And then there are those that simply walk into your life by chance. My discovery of Pootharekulu, the exquisite paper-thin sweet from Andhra Pradesh, was one such beautiful accident.

This afternoon, I happened to be in the neighbourhood on an errand when, on an impulse, I decided to drop in and meet 88-year-old Rani Mukundan aunty, someone I admire immensely. She is a dear friend of my late mother-in-law and has always held a very special place in my heart.

Rani aunty is a dynamite of talent and energy. An exceptional painter, a passionate gardener and a woman with an extraordinary eye for beauty, she has spent nearly six decades collecting plants. Her home is almost a reserve forest in the middle of Kochi, filled with an astonishing collection of greenery, paintings and carefully chosen curios. Yet everything is curated with such taste that, despite its abundance, her home remains absolutely spic and span. There is an unmistakable personality in every corner.

It was during this completely unplanned visit and her insistence on not sending me off without having anything, that I stumbled upon something I had never really experienced before: Pootharekulu.

And what a discovery it was.

I was so fascinated by this discovery that immediately on returning home I wanted to learn more and enlighten myself about the origins and making of this sweet. That is another fascinating story. 

I am presenting my summary as I have understood and experienced it.

Pootharekulu, also called Putharekulu, literally translates roughly to “coating of sheets”. It is one of Andhra Pradesh's most distinctive traditional sweets, with its roots firmly embedded in Atreyapuram, in the East Godavari region. The sweet has been made there for centuries and has become almost inseparable from the identity of the village.

What fascinated me most was learning about the extraordinary craftsmanship behind something that, at first glance, appears so deceptively simple.

The magic begins with rice.

A special variety of rice, traditionally known locally as Jaya, is soaked and ground into an exceptionally fine batter. The batter is then used to create the famous reku, the almost impossibly thin rice-starch sheet that gives the sweet its identity.

The traditional preparation is wonderfully ingenious.

An earthen pot is heated and inverted. A fine cloth is dipped into the rice batter and then swiftly swept across the hot surface of the inverted pot. The movement has to be quick, precise and practiced. Almost instantaneously, the moisture evaporates and leaves behind a translucent film of rice starch.

A sheet so delicate that it resembles a piece of paper.

That sheet is carefully peeled away.

Then comes the layering.

One sheet is placed down, a generous brushing of melted ghee follows, and powdered sugar is sprinkled over it. Another delicate sheet may be added, followed by more ghee and another layer of sweetness. Depending on the variety, the filling can include jaggery, powdered cashews, almonds and pistachios, creating a richer and nuttier character.

There are also contemporary versions filled with kova or mawa, while newer interpretations have ventured into chocolate, crushed biscuits and even Oreo-inspired fillings.

But for me, the traditional versions possess a charm that modern experimentation cannot quite replicate.

The women of Atreyapuram have perfected this craft over generations. What looks like a simple kitchen exercise is actually a remarkable display of hand-eye coordination, timing and muscle memory. The making of the rice sheets has become an important cottage industry, providing livelihoods to hundreds of women in the village. Their hands have preserved a culinary tradition that could easily have disappeared into history.

Once the layers are assembled, the sheet is folded and rolled with extraordinary delicacy. The finished sweet is light, compact and almost impossibly fragile, before being carefully packed for sale.

And then comes the moment of truth.

The first bite is an experience in contrasts.

There is a delicate crunch as the wafer-thin rice layers yield between the teeth. Almost immediately, the crispness gives way to a soft, buttery melt. The ghee spreads across the palate, carrying the sweetness of the sugar or jaggery with it. Then the nuts appear, adding little bursts of texture and roasted richness.

It doesn't sit heavily on the tongue. It almost disappears.

There is something wonderfully ephemeral about Pootharekulu. You bite into something that looks like paper and, within seconds, it has transformed into sweetness, ghee, nuttiness and fragrance.

The taste is uncomplicated. The technique is anything but. And perhaps that is what makes it so extraordinary.

I was also struck by the story behind the sweet. Local lore attributes its origins to a woman in Atreyapuram who is said to have experimented with leftover rice starch, adding ghee and sugar to it. Whether every detail of that story is historically verifiable is perhaps less important than what it represents: the instinctive creativity of someone who looked at an ordinary ingredient and imagined something extraordinary.

That spirit survives in Atreyapuram today.

A simple rice batter becomes a translucent sheet. A little ghee becomes richness. Sugar becomes sweetness. A handful of nuts becomes texture. And generations of skilled hands transform all of them into a delicacy that has travelled far beyond its village of origin.

That, to me, is the real beauty of food.

Great food does not always begin with expensive ingredients or complicated recipes. Sometimes it begins with imagination, patience and the willingness to see possibility in the ordinary. Put heart and soul into the making, and humble ingredients can acquire an identity, a history and eventually a reputation.

Atreyapuram did exactly that.

And now, Pootharekulu carries the name of that village wherever it goes.

What made my discovery even more special was the person with whom it happened. When Rani aunty saw how much I was enjoying the sweet, she lovingly packed two pieces for me to take home and share with Nandini, my wife.

That small gesture somehow completed the experience.

I had gone to see an old friend almost on a whim. I came away having discovered a sweet I had somehow missed all these years, along with a little more appreciation for the invisible stories hidden inside the food we eat.

Life occasionally opens a door without announcing that there is something beautiful behind it.

Today, that door was Rani aunty's home.

Behind it was Pootharekulu.

And tucked inside those two little paper-thin sweets was something far more precious than sugar, ghee and nuts: a new taste, a beautiful memory, and the warmth of an unexpected afternoon spent with someone whose presence has been woven into my family's story.

Some tastes are enjoyed. Some are remembered. And some become memories that refuse to fade.

Pootharekulu, for me, has already become one of them.

Coz, Panampilly Nagar, Kochi

 Coz, Panampilly Nagar, Kochi: A Beautiful Blend of Flavour, Atmosphere, and Fine Hospitality

There are restaurants that become popular because they serve good food, and then there are those that evolve into neighbourhood institutions because they create an experience people willingly return to. Coz at Panampilly Nagar belongs comfortably in the latter.

Conceived as a contemporary all-day café and restaurant, Coz has built a loyal following by combining globally inspired comfort food with warm Kerala hospitality in one of Kochi's most charming neighbourhoods. 

The interiors are understated yet stylish, with earthy tones, warm lighting and tasteful décor that encourages guests to slow down. One can choose between the cosy air-conditioned indoor dining area, an in-between thoughtfully designed workspace where laptops and coffee coexist effortlessly, or the delightful open-air garden seating that brings together greenery, fresh air and relaxed conversations. It is the kind of place that adapts beautifully whether you are dropping in for a business meeting, a family lunch or an unhurried evening with friends.

Our Sunday lunch at Coz was shared by Nandini, our son Karan and me, and it turned into one of those leisurely meals where every course seemed to raise expectations for the next. We opened with the Chicken Goujons, and they were everything a good starter should be. Golden and crisp on the outside, yet tender and juicy within, each strip of chicken retained its succulence beneath a beautifully seasoned coating. The accompanying dip added a welcome contrast, balancing richness with freshness and making the platter disappear much faster than we had anticipated.

Karan's Chicken Burrito Bowl arrived looking every bit as vibrant as it tasted. Rather than relying on a single dominant flavour, the bowl celebrated harmony. The perfectly cooked chicken, fragrant rice, fresh vegetables, chips, beans and sauces each retained their individual identity while contributing to a complete and satisfying whole. Every spoonful delivered different textures and subtle flavour combinations, making it a wholesome meal that never felt heavy.

The Pollo Asado with Arroz Verde that Nandini had, demonstrated equal confidence in it's execution. The grilled chicken carried the gentle smokiness and caramelisation expected from a well-marinated Asado, while remaining wonderfully moist. The beautifully herb-infused Arroz Verde brought freshness, colour and aromatic depth to the plate. Together they formed a dish that was comforting, balanced and quietly elegant without trying too hard to impress.

My own medium rare beef steak was undoubtedly the highlight of the afternoon. Cooked with remarkable precision, the centre displayed that beautiful warm pink which every steak lover hopes to find. The beef was tender enough to yield effortlessly to the knife while retaining its natural bite and flavour. The peppercorn sauce was rich without overwhelming the meat, adding just the right amount of warmth and spice. Instead of the customary mashed potatoes, I opted for buttered rice, a substitution that worked surprisingly well by allowing the steak and sauce to remain the undisputed stars. The sautéed vegetables added freshness, colour and just enough crunch to complete an exceptionally satisfying plate.

Our beverages complemented the meal perfectly. The Cortado I had was smooth, balanced and showcased the espresso without excessive bitterness. The Peach Iced Tea Karan liked, was refreshingly fruity and ideal for a warm Kochi afternoon, while the Nandini's Vietnamese Iced Latte offered a luxurious blend of bold coffee, creamy milk and gentle sweetness that lingered pleasantly long after the final sip.

Good restaurants are ultimately remembered as much for their people as for their food, and Coz is fortunate to have Hari and Prasad leading the guest experience. They possess that increasingly rare ability to make every guest feel genuinely welcome. Their thoughtful recommendations, patient explanations of the menu and attentive yet unobtrusive service ensured that we made informed choices and remained comfortable throughout our meal. Their professionalism and warmth reflect a team that truly enjoys looking after its guests.

We left Coz after an unhurried Sunday lunch, and what remained was not merely the memory of excellent food but the feeling of having spent quality time in a space that understands hospitality in its fullest sense. Now I know why Coz is thronged by so many discerning diners, it is because this restaurant has masterfully designed a charming dining space, with an exceptional mix of cuisine, where their gracious service in that enchanting ambience creates an unforgettable experience for the diner. Everyone comes away knowing for sure, that it is just one of the many visits they will be making to Coz. That magic is because Coz satisfies not only the food-craving of every patron, but it also feeds their heart with happiness, mind with peace, and the soul with satisfaction.

As we drove out into the leafy avenues of Panampilly Nagar, it became clear that Coz offers something more enduring than just an excellent meal. It brings together a wonderful location, thoughtfully curated spaces, gracious hospitality, attentive guest service and a kitchen that consistently delivers food of exceptional quality and character. In a city blessed with many fine restaurants, Coz continues to distinguish itself by making every visit feel personal. Our heartfelt thanks to the entire team, especially Hari and Prasad, for making our Sunday lunch such a memorable experience. We left with happy hearts, satisfied palates and every intention of returning soon.