Colonel's Food Discoveries: October 2015

Ember at Le Meridien, Kochi

Ember @Le Meridien
A Historical Setting For A Memorable Meal!

A Photo-essay By Lt Col D Purushothaman Pillay (Retd)

Experiencing art has undergone a renaissance of sorts, with the introduction of ‘Ember’ at the Le Meridien, which proudly for Kochi, is also India’s first museum-themed restaurant. This novel landmark is the brainchild of Meridien's visionary local celebrity Chef JP Singh. He has ensured that one can indulge one’s taste buds in a setting that also gives one’s mind intellectual and cultural nourishment.

After a small walk through the lobby to a restored wooden temple pavilion adjacent to a mystical cauldron full of smouldering crimson embers, one is transported into a haven rich in the myth and magic of a bygone era. The artifacts displayed in glass showcases, on pedestals, along the walkway on the floor, and those that adorn the walls of the precincts of this quaint eatery, are priceless.

One gets to dine in a setting steeped in a history that transcends time and civilisations. Sculptures, vases, plates, busts including Buddha, manuscripts, tribal masks, swords, weapons, ornaments, musical instruments and paintings that are thousands of years old, some dating as far back as 500 BC belonging to the Roman Empire, lie beside relics from the South Indian Chola dynasty, like the magnificent Shiva-Parvati statue placed at the entry.

There are about 900 artifacts worth close to Rs 4 Crores that have been transported from The Kerala Folklore Museum, Thevara, Kochi to this restaurant. I was particularly impressed by a well-preserved, French Manuscript Bible that was sourced from the Bishop of Puducherry and the distinctive 18^th Century Chinese glazed blue and white porcelain plates and bowls collection, with quite a few rare pieces reflective of influences of Islamic pottery.

All these artifacts are available to the diners for purchase. A leisurely browse through the formidable collection would definitely yield some reasonably priced souvenirs that are a real bargain.

The Chef’s Table hosted by Master Chef JP Singh is a great way to sample the best offerings without having to make one’s own choices from their extensive a la carte menu. The starter platter had the Chef’s signature innovation ‘Smoked Salmon Pani Poori with Spicy ‘n Sweet Water’. The prawns cooked in tender coconut were some of the most delectable and creamiest ones I had tasted in a very long while. Unraveling the taste of the smoked lobsters expertly released ever so slowly from under a glass-cloche is a spectacle that one will remember for a long time for the drama that unfolded this ceremony on the dining table. The children loved it so much that they are inspired and constantly experimenting, to replicate the moment at their dining table at home.

A hearty platter with a mix of Tangdi Kebab, Galouti Kebab, Spicy Squid Rings on Prawn Cracker and Tandoori Apple & Pineapple excited the palate with its varied mix of textures and flavours.

Chef Gladwin Anthony, who manages the Ember kitchen, is an accomplished and skillful culinarian, who has a wealth of rich experience working with Michelin Star Chefs abroad. He explained that the menu has a diverse mix of dishes drawn from the best cooking traditions around the country. This includes both North Indian and local flavours. For instance, there is the delectable Nalli Ka Roganjosh from Kashmir and the celebrated Achinga Chemeen Ularthiyathu from Kerala.

The meals are served to the diners with an assortment of house specialty breads that included some unique combinations like the Coconut and Apricot Naan and Smoked Mozzarella and Green Chilli Parantha.

Chef Gladwin also serves a Smoked Dal Makhani to every diner along with that bread basket. This dal tasted very different and simply divine. On inquiry I learnt it is made slightly differently from the traditional method. He ensured that the soaked black lentils are left to slow-cook overnight in a tandoor and it is finished in a liberal cream and butter splurge, just before being served. That final flourish takes this humble dish to a whole new high.

The desserts included a platter of Vellam Payasam With Caramalised Banana and Papadam. Among alternate choices are the Pistachio Kulfi, Kesar Rasmalai and the Coconut & Jaggery Samosa.

A Sulaimani Tea to wind up the meal seemed just perfect to settle the stimulated taste-buds.

Dining at Ember ensures that culinary traditions are revisited and historical memories are reignited. This is an artful eatery that showcases gourmet cuisine with an outstandingly talented Chef JP Singh at the helm. The charming presence of a vibrant Restaurant Manager Neeta, along with the thoughtful selection of piped instrumental music in the background, and the attentive faultless waiting, leaves one feeling utterly pampered and pleasurably satiated at the end of the meal. The distinct decor and avant-garde menu this restaurant has, makes it stand out of the crowd. That is why it ranks among the best eateries in Kerala today. A fact testified by its rapid climb to #2 in a matter of just a few months, on the TripAdvisor local restaurant listings.

Guests can choose between an a la carte and a set five-course tasting menu christened ‘Chef’s Table’. Ember is a Dinner-only restaurant that opens between 6.30 PM and 11 PM every night. It is generally crowded especially over the weekends hence one is advised to make a prior reservation to avoid a wait.